Oh glorious Sydney well renowned for its magnificent harbour and what a day to enjoy Sydney Harbour in all its glory.  The Camino started at the end of Circular Quay towards the Opera House where I caught a glass elevator which rises high to the Cahill Expressway. 

Postcard views of the Opera House, Sydney Harbour Bridge and the Rocks unveiled themselves. Winding around to the Sydney Harbour Bridge walkway with views across to Kirribilli.  Clear skies, sun a blazing and the crisp air on top of the bridge.

Off the bridge in what seemed like a flash to Milson’s Point greeted by the smiling face of Luna Park and the boats on Lavender Bay.  It was impossible not to be enchanted by the views. 

Then it all started to change and change dramatically.  The scenery slowly turned to what was proudly announced on a sign as “Sydney Harbour has always been a working harbour”.  I couldn’t help but feel this was a way to justify all this industry. Different areas popped up along the way to Greenwich Point Wharf, Navel wharves, BP Former Site and then Shell Gore Bay Terminal.  I wondered how this precious harbour of ours could have such sites in such densely populated areas. Where families were happily swimming in harbour beaches just around the corner of petroleum tanks. 

I stumbled on a place called the Coal Loader and I read that this area had been a physical and spiritual sustenance place for the Aboriginal Cammeraygal clan who lived on the peninsula for thousands of years.  Large rock carvings were in the area although I didn’t see them in my walk.  Sadly in the 1920’s it became an industrial site for coal.  Now Coal Loader has ironically be turned into a centre of sustainability.  Beneath the platform I made friends with a few chooks and saw the tunnels that were carved for transportation of the coal. Now just reminders of the “working harbours” history.

Further along I came across parkland with smartly paved and restored areas, despite its appearance I felt a strange sense there.  I couldn’t quite put my finger on it.  I listened for birds that I couldn’t hear, it seemed almost bare in some way.  It was when I started to read the signs that this deathly silence made sense. This site had been used in the 1920’s by British Petroleum Company BP for storage tanks to transfer fuel from inbound ships to motor tankers.  I later found that the sandstone bedrock had been blasted for the tanks and concrete walls built at the lower part of the site to retain spills.  When BP left the site in the 1980s the site was apparently wrecked and contaminated.  A project to restore the area to public parkland was funded by a $1.87 million grant from the Australian Government, $860,000 from the NSW Government and $3 million from North Sydney Council.  Apart from the cost, I pondered at least an effort was made to restore the land and then towards the end of the walk I came across the Shell’s Gore Bay terminal large and opposing set right on the harbour still operating.

Strangely enough in between the old BP site and the Shell site I came across a beautiful walking track that reminded me once again of the natural fauna blessing.  I strolled in awe of the beauty of Gore Reserve with bubbling waterfalls and natural tracks that transported me to remote times.  Part of the way I was escorted by three bush turkeys who eagerly jumped up around rocks in front of me leading the way.

Australia holds a multitude of natural treasures and yet this seems to be misused over recent times due to industrial and economic reasoning.  Now more than ever we need to look after this precious ecosystem to ensure the natural resources are not exploited, damaged.  Awareness of what is happening in our country is the first step and then taking a stand to balance the scales is the next.   Or else this lucky country will not be so lucky after all…

There are organisations that are active in protecting our wilderness one of which is The Wilderness Society.  The following is an excerpt from their website:

Australia truly is the lucky country. Our bush, forests and deserts are amongst the most beautiful on Earth. Our oceans are vast and pristine, and our soil is some of the oldest and most fertile on the planet.

People of Australia have looked after this country for thousands of years, and science has identified what nature needs to survive and prosper. Yet, over recent decades, we’ve become accustomed to hearing stories of ecological devastation and probable collapse. Nobody has the right to destroy what we all depend on for survival; we must take care of our environment so it can take care of us.

That’s why we’re hard at work protecting our precious wild places, as well as tackling the causes of a changing climate that threatens both nature and people.  For more information on The Wilderness Society click here

I would like to acknowledge the Traditional Owners of the land on which I walked the Eora People of the Cadigal Clan, the traditional owners of the Sydney city region and the Cammeraygal Clan the traditional owners of the Lower North Shore.  I would like to pay my respects to the Elders past, present and future.

View route map for Camino de Sydney | Circular Quay To Greenwich on plotaroute.com

What is the Camino de Sydney?

I had heard of many pilgrimages around the world, like the Camino de Santiago in Spain.  People walking for 7- 8hrs a day for a month or more, walking on a route that had been laid out for many years.  Here you would soul search, ponder life, make friends and connect. I liked this idea but I also like the idea to discover what is close to you as well.  And that is why I thought of simple walks around Sydney where I live. My objectives would be to:

• Walk to different spots around Sydney
• Use this as a time to reflect
• Speak to people along the way
• Help anyone that needs assistance
• Observe, inquire
• Well be a bit of a pilgrim – Sydney style

For more Camino de Sydney blogs click here